1 year ago
65
Columbia Hillen
One glimpse astir Le Cromagnon, a charming edifice successful the bosom of Bordeaux, leaves 1 sensing its proprietor has a inheritance successful creator design.
That conception is strengthened adjacent much erstwhile innovative dishes, creatively presented, look from the compact unfastened room of owner-chef, Oxana Cretu.
Chef Oxana Cretu. Photo by Columbia Hillen
Oxana, from the Republic of Moldova who archetypal arrived successful France, aged 22 as an au pair, fuses her acquisition successful sustainable merchandise plan with her passionateness for cuisine. The result: delightfully astonishing combinations that fulfill some imaginativeness and taste.
Le Cromagnon (loosely translated arsenic ‘The Caveman’) seats astir 30 radical and opened 5 years agone connected rue du Palais Gallien, a stone's propulsion from Place Gambetta.
Columbia Hillen
Its décor could champion beryllium described arsenic ‘minimalist and au naturel.’ Bare wood tables subtlety decorated with dried flowers and combinations of grains and metallic partition decorations of seeding chaotic fennel. An exposed chromatic artifact partition and an air-conditioning vent stretching crossed the ceiling assistance a consciousness of authenticity, portion hints of poesy are created by axenic achromatic feathers embracing an overhead chandelier. Seating is soft, gray, armchair-style.
Varieties of teas capable jars connected adjacent shelves including Blue of London, an Earl Grey with bergamot; Vive le The, a greenish tea; and Hammam, an herbal combo of thyme, mandarin peel and rosemary. Larger jars contain exotic spices.
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Our amuse bouche served to america by affable and businesslike Laurette, a well-traveled lady, reflected Oxana’s flair for invention. It was a savory ice-cream of caramel and maize successful a cone, airy and foamy with grains of the rootlike connected top.
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Our starters, which arrived connected 3 stylishly-designed plates, the archetypal shaped similar a boat, the 2nd a mini marble slab and the third, level resting connected a bowl, were arsenic inspired and included bao oregon steamed breadstuff with shreds of crab overlaid with matcha sorbet; fried oversea anemones; and homemade tart with an anchovy filling, seaweed and purselane; and ceviche of trout with eggplant and ginger, smoked with a wand of charcoal from cherry wood.
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As mains, we savored wedges of monkfish flavored with mushrooms and cockles successful a creamy condiment followed by a mini pyramid of smoked pigeon, with Tasmania berry sauce, lightly cooked with vanilla and crunchy cashew nuts, the delectable smoky aroma wafting crossed the country arsenic it was brought towards our table.
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Our palate cleanser featured citrus sorbet with granita of greenish pome and roasted almonds, with tiny strands of seaweed for added saltiness.
Desserts - similar the preceding dishes - are a enactment of creation connected a plate, our including hazelnuts layered with dollops of ice-cream decorated with sprigs of seaweed atop.
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Reflecting Oxanu’s culinary imagination, connected different occasions her paper has featured scallops seared successful Binchotan, a Japanese charcoal made from ubamegashi oak, persimmon marmalade and jelly, Sturia caviar and Thai broth; celery and shiitake risotto and shellfish; and pigeon fillet, cashew hummus and smoked almonds, shiso and umebushi (Japanese plum).
Oxana has devoted overmuch clip sourcing prime nutrient earlier choosing reliable suppliers, frankincense her vegetables are provided by Frédérique Amy-Develay successful southwest France portion citrus fruits are from Damien Blasco successful the eastbound Pyrenees.
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A sojourn to Le Cromagnon is besides a accidental to sensation immoderate fantabulous and lesser known wines from countries specified arsenic the Czech Republic, arsenic good arsenic classics from France, Australia, Argentina and Italy. Even much interesting, are vintages chosen by Oxana from her autochthonal country. We opted for Fautor Aurore Feteasca Regala, a ‘royal wine’ from Moldova, airy yellowish successful colour with greenish reflections, with jasmine, floral and citrus notes.
Oxama offers some 5 and seven-course tasting menus and successful my opinion, the prime of the nutrient and its intricately-designed presumption elevates her edifice to Michelin-star level, a designation I’m definite she volition person soon enough.
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