By Katy Watson
BBC South America correspondent, Amazon
As Brazilians hole to prime Jair Bolsonaro oregon Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva arsenic their caller president, the aboriginal of the largest rainforest successful the satellite hangs successful the balance.
There is nary specified happening arsenic soundlessness successful the Amazon. The rustle of the trees, the birdsong, the drips of h2o connected leaves aft a dense downpour - the wood is ever talking.
But past each truthful often, it is rudely interrupted; nature's speech drowned retired by the hum of planes oregon helicopters overhead.
Most of the craft beryllium to amerciable golden miners, heading to sites to present supplies. The radical of Maloca Paapiu hardly bat an eyelid now. And they consciousness that the authorities are doing the same.
The remoteness of the Yanomami territory is the crushed for its quality - arsenic good arsenic its strife. Close to 30,000 radical unrecorded a hunter-gatherer manner connected a reserve the size of Portugal.
The onshore is highly coveted - affluent successful golden and minerals, it has agelong been successful the sights of amerciable miners, but successful 1992, a statesmanlike decree recognised the Yanomami people's rights to the land.
While mining enactment decreased aft their onshore was protected, successful the past 4 years nether President Jair Bolsonaro, it's deed caller highs. The portion is experiencing an amerciable golden rush.
The tiny indigenous villages, adjacent to the golden deposits, are the hardest hit.
The wellness centre successful Paapiu has go a benignant of beforehand enactment tract hospital. It is simply a elemental woody hut with intermittent energy and conscionable a vigor to interaction the extracurricular world. There's a dependable enactment of radical wanting to beryllium seen. Mothers beryllium connected the level with their babies, bellies distended and their hairsbreadth discoloured - a wide motion of malnutrition among children.
One pistillate who appears to beryllium successful her 20s comes successful looking precise weak. She is hooked up to a drip and laid connected the lone furniture successful the centre. The wellness idiosyncratic explains she excessively is malnourished and dehydrated.
Outside, determination is simply a makeshift ward for much patients - a elemental woody framework with leaves for a extortion and hammocks for beds. Everyone successful this structure has malaria - yet different illness brought successful by outsiders and making the Yanomami sick.
"The amerciable miners are moving adjacent our village, they support getting closer," Malirina Yanomami tells me. "There's tons of fume from the machines and that's making kids ill. It causes tummy ache, malnutrition, the kids get skinny. Before, we didn't person truthful overmuch illness, determination were acold little superior diseases and we got amended quickly."
Malirina's two-month-old grandson has pneumonia. He doesn't person a sanction - Yanomami parents hold for a fewer years to sanction them, retired of fearfulness they whitethorn die. It's a precise existent anxiety.
Five minutes locomotion from the wellness centre is simply a creek wherever 3 tiny boys are playing successful the water. They person been told not to but similar immoderate kids, they disregard their parents. The mercury utilized to extract the golden from the excavation upstream has poisoned these once-crystal wide waters truthful sportfishing and drinking present is present impossible.
There are estimated to beryllium astir 20,000 amerciable miners moving successful the region, spurred connected by the existent president. Jair Bolsonaro maintains that the Amazon is affluent successful resources and section radical request to beryllium capable to payment from that. So helium has projected a instrumentality that would legalise mining connected indigenous areas.
At the aforesaid time, locals kick that surveillance of practices detrimental to the Amazon has fallen.
"Most organised transgression associated with deforestation - wood degradation, amerciable mining - is casual [to identify] due to the fact that the satellites prime up the archetypal time of deforestation," says renowned idiosyncratic Carlos Nobre.
He is referring to a strategy introduced successful Brazil successful 2004 - DETER - which helps authorities agencies combat transgression successful the forest, giving regular information connected deforestation.
"Unfortunately, the governmental sermon of the existent president of Brazil has ever been, 'go ahead, deforest, bash immoderate golden mining, bash immoderate you want. The forests person nary value."
The golden mines are really casual to spot. In a oversea of unbroken green, the wood abruptly opens up. The onshore scarred by excavators and pools of water, sifted by miners searching for treasure.
Miners are often equipped - successful this transgression world, it's hard to cognize who to trust.
"It's similar immoderate city, determination are bully and atrocious people," says 24-year-old Danilo - not his existent sanction - who has worked successful amerciable mining for a fewer years now. "When it comes to gold, you person to support yourself."
Danilo prefers to commercialized mundane goods. A 2 litre vessel of Coca-cola sells for 8 reais successful the metropolis ($1.50). In a golden mine, it sells for person to $50.
This thirst for golden means the mode of beingness for the Yanomami hangs successful the balance. And the existent authorities seems unwilling to halt the miners.
"If Bolsonaro wins again, he'll termination america all," says shaman and person Davi Kopenawa Yanomami. "We are surrounded by large politicians who don't privation to cognize america oregon respect us."
With ample amounts of wealth being earned connected Yanomami land, immoderate of the indigenous assemblage person go portion of the manufacture - whether done being paid to assistance entree to the miners oregon mining themselves.
"A number of young Yanomami are involved," admits Davi. "They deliberation amerciable mining helps - but it doesn't, it conscionable kills people."
As you alert implicit the immense pristine wood - the lone viable mode to get to galore of the villages - aureate rivers interruption up the canopy, weaving done the trees. Up close, immoderate are immense - and fast-flowing. It's connected these waterways that the miners question connected motorised canoes.
A 53-year-old parent of six, Maria is gathering a caller location successful the authorities capital, Boa Vista. She's replacing a woody shack with a ceramic operation unneurotic with solid windows and tiled floors. All this paid for by her enactment arsenic a navigator astatine the mines.
She started moving erstwhile she was 22. Employed arsenic a home idiosyncratic by a aviator astatine the amerciable mines, helium offered her her archetypal job.
"I worked determination for three-and-a-half months, and came backmost and was capable to bargain my archetypal woody house," says Maria, which is not her existent name.
In the country of her chamber are a mates of integrative jerrycans. Inside, she's packed clothes, a portion of enactment for a hammock and immoderate bug spray to ward disconnected the malaria-infested mosquitos.
She's acceptable for the telephone telephone that's bound to travel soon, 1 of the excavation owners she knows asking her to question backmost to the forest. It doesn't mean she's not terrified. A fewer months ago, her canoe capsized and she lone managed to enactment afloat acknowledgment to the jerrycan.
"I'd similar america to spell without than person my children bash this too," she says. "Because it's illegal, you tally the hazard of being arrested. But my lad doesn't person enactment and helium has a family."
With debts to pay, Maria doesn't judge they person an alternative. Maria, though, is uncommon successful the mining assemblage successful the information that she doesn't privation Bolsonaro to triumph a 2nd term.
"He campaigned successful 2018 saying helium would legalise mining - and erstwhile helium does that, he's incentivising everyone to bash it," she says. "As president I deliberation helium has to marque the Brazilian system amended truthful radical person much occupation opportunities distant from amerciable mining."
The constabulary station's car parkland successful Boa Vista is testament to the booming mining industry. Dozens of planes and helicopters confiscated from suspected amerciable miners - immoderate of them adjacent salient section businessmen.
Mining is astir decidedly successful this region's blood. In beforehand of the governor's palace stands a monument dedicated to the prospectors of the past. The existent politician - an state of Bolsonaro's - wants that contented to continue.
"We person the close to exploit our earthy wealth, benefitting indigenous communities," Antonio Denarium explains.
"The mode it is today, each the mining that takes spot successful Roraima leaves the authorities illegally, not paying immoderate taxes, nary fees that volition compensate the biology harm caused by the mining. In the Brazilian Amazon determination are 23 cardinal radical and those radical request to work."
When I inquire miner Danilo astir the aboriginal of the rainforest, it's of small consequence.
"I conscionable privation to unrecorded for today," helium admits. "Life is short." But helium does hold he's causing damage.
"When the excavators commencement to work, they make a monolithic hole. And you can't capable it in," helium says.
As for the interaction connected the indigenous communities, helium has small sympathy.
"They're much shameless than the miners," helium says. "Every travel to the mines, you walk done an indigenous area. If you don't wage them off, they won't fto you through. I utilized to person this imaginativeness of mining being atrocious for the indigenous, deforestation being damaging. But I saw they were portion of the problem."
The Amazon matters to the world, absorbing immense amounts of greenhouse gases but for those surviving successful the rainforest, getting by is what they attraction astir about.
What volition resoluteness the occupation of poorness successful the Amazon is creating caller alternatives for the economy, says Marina Silva, Lula's erstwhile situation minister. "But we can't proceed to destruct the wood due to the fact that different it volition spell past the constituent of nary return."
She near Lula's authorities successful 2008 aft disagreements implicit his infrastructure projects successful the Amazon. Does she truly spot him arsenic the Amazon's saviour?
"I deliberation Lula contiguous has a wider knowing of what's astatine play successful narration to clime alteration and the relation the Amazon has."
"It's not the occupation of 1 person, this thought of a saviour doesn't use to the world of the satellite we are surviving in, with each its complexities. But I bash judge helium tin lend greatly."
How volition the Yanomami assemblage - and the Amazon - look successful a fewer decades from now?
There's nary doubt, competing forces successful the Amazon are changing however they unrecorded their lives.
In this immense rainforest though, there's small anticipation that politicians tin support them safe.